TOP 10 Best Humidifiers 2025

To be frank, raising air humidity to the recommended 40-50% RH is not that difficult. In many cases, even basic methods such as damp towels on batteries or exploiting your electric kettle will do (we tried that). Now, the humidifier can achieve the same result with more class and less effort. But to justify the investment, it has to be safe and quiet in operation, straightforward to control and adjust, as well as easy to clean and refill. It also must not be an eyesore.

With these considerations in mind, we selected five finalists for different needs and budgets. Whether you need a high-end or basic model, you’ll certainly find your perfect humidifier here. 

Buying Guide

In winter, it’s common for the air humidity levels to plummet as we turn up the heating. Humidifiers are the easiest way to remedy that, as they add the lost moisture back to the air by producing and releasing mist or steam. The best ones even allow maintaining the exact humidity levels you prefer.

However, when used incorrectly, these seemingly simple devices can create their own issues. If too much moisture is added back, mould and bacteria will flourish. The same will happen to your humidifier’s innards if they’re not maintained properly. There are also additional concerns such as safety, noise levels, consumption, and recurring costs to consider.

This guide covers everything you need to know to buy the best humidifier for your needs. We explain the optimum humidity levels, strengths, and weaknesses of different humidifier types, and how to take care of these appliances properly.

What is Optimal Indoor Humidity?

The opinions on the best indoor humidity levels slightly differ, even among reputable sources and experts. If you do some research, you’ll see that the relative humidity recommendations fall between 30% and 60%. The relative humidity is the amount of water vapour present in the air as a percentage of the total amount that could be held at its current temperature.

Most people feel best when the relative humidity levels are 40-50%. However, individual preferences are normal; furthermore, we like slightly drier air in winter than in summer. There are also other factors to bear in mind, such as indoor temperature and ventilation. Nevertheless, you certainly don’t want to see condensate on the windows, usually appearing when moisture levels rise above 55-60%. That’s when bacteria, dust mites and mould start to thrive, and you might actually need a dehumidifier. On the other hand, you don’t want to let the relative humidity drop below 30%; that’s when sinuses and skin start getting dry.

If your skin, lips, eyes or throat feel itchy and uncomfortable, the air is probably too dry. The simplest way to check for sure is getting a hygrometer. Even if the humidifier model you’ve been eyeing has one, it typically isn’t 100% accurate as the moisture near the machine itself tends to be higher than in more distant areas of the room. To obtain more information about the indoor climate, you can also consider a home weather station. These consoles measure indoor (and outdoor) humidity and temperature and, in some cases, even air quality.

Do I Really Need a Humidifier?

Dry air can do more harm than just cause itching or dry skin. It can aggravate allergies, asthma, nose bleeds, eczema, sinus infections and related headaches. It can also contribute to sleep problems. And you’re not the only one who’s not feeling their best. For example, a humidifier in the nursery can help your baby breathe easier (especially if she’s having a cold) and keep her skin moist.

Dry air also can cause wooden furniture and flooring to warp or contract and the wallpapers to peel off. Static electricity can increase, causing unpleasant shocks and, in extreme cases, even damage electrical devices. If you own musical instruments and/or paintings, these can also suffer.

While this sounds awful, the good news is that modern humidifiers do wonders for various indoor areas’ types and sizes. Whether you need rise humidity levels at bedroom, hall, home office or nursery, there’s a solution.

Types of Humidifiers

First of all, you should be aware of the size of the area that needs to be humidified.

• Whole-house humidifiers nowadays often get installed into heating and ventilation systems, which is the most convenient and efficient method. They can sustain the desired humidity levels throughout the entire residence while requiring little power and maintenance. Yet, if you’re reading this article, the chances are your house doesn’t have one, and you’re not in the mood for the costly installation process that’s required to set it up.
• For most of us, electric standalone humidifiers are a cheaper and more convenient solution. These just need to be plugged into an outlet and can be placed in any room with mains power. However, there are several types that significantly differ from each other.
• Depending on their capacity, the standalone models can be divided into tabletop and console (or floor) models. The tabletop humidifiers are smaller, lighter and more portable but best suited for smaller rooms (up to 30 m2). They also require more frequent refills due to smaller water tanks. For larger areas, you should get a console humidifier; the most potent models can deal with areas above 100 m2. These have larger tanks that need refilling less often. But they are bulkier, and some might feel heavy or awkward to move when full.

Air Humidification Technologies

Next, you should decide whether you prefer a model that emits a warm or cool mist.

• Warm-mist humidifiers (also called steam vaporisers) used to be the most popular option. Essentially, these are geared-up kettles; they use a heating element to boil water and release the resulting vapour in the air. The biggest advantage of warm-mist humidifiers is that they kill any mould or bacteria that might have decided to dwell in the water tank. Thus, this is the most hygienic option. They are also relatively quiet (most people don’t feel disturbed by the gurgling sound of hot water) and can be used with hard water, as any mineral content will be left in the tank rather than released in the air. Afterwards, you just clean the tank with water and vinegar; no complicated maintenance needed. Warm-mist humidifiers also slightly increase the room temperature, which can be soothing if you have a stuffy nose.The biggest downside of warm-mist humidifiers is that they are hazardous if you have children or pets. There is a significant risk of burns if the device is tipped (some manufacturers try to minimise the risks by warming the water up instead of boiling it). Another con is that this humidification method is the least energy efficient. Some people might argue that the release of warm air allows turning down the heating. But the truth is, your heating system probably is more energy-efficient than an average warm-mist model.
• Cool-mist humidifiers are used more often. They raise the air moisture equally well but are safer and more economical. Depending on the technology used, the potential downsides may involve a higher chance of bacteria and mould growth, more noise and maintenance. There are three main types of cold-mist humidifiers: evaporative, ultrasonic and impeller humidifiers.
• Evaporative humidifiers use a fan to blow air over a wick filter. The wick absorbs the water from a refillable tank, and, as the air passes over, natural evaporation occurs. Cool-mist evaporative humidifiers are safe (as no heating element is used) and quite hygienic since any minerals or impurities present in the water will remain in the tank. This means you can use such humidifiers even with hard water. However, you will have to clean the tank and the wick filter regularly (to prevent mould and bacteria growth) and replace the filter every few months. Many evaporative units are top-fill models. This means you can conveniently take the top off and refill them with a pitcher of water, no carrying heavy water tanks involved.
  The downsides are that natural evaporation may not be enough for large rooms or those with very dry air. If you prefer very moist air (above 50% RH), again, an evaporative model will struggle as evaporation becomes slower when the air is already humid. The bright side is that this technology won’t over-humidify the area by accident. Finally, the fan noise can seem unpleasant for noise-sensitive people; this will depend on the model. Overall, we believe evaporative humidifiers are the best pick for smaller rooms and those that don’t require very high humidity levels.
• Ultrasonic humidifiers use high-frequency vibrations created by a small metal diaphragm (called nebuliser) which breaks the water into tiny particles. A small fan then disperses the vapour into the room, producing a visible mist. Since ultrasonic waves cannot be heard by human air, and the fan is tiny, these are considered the quietest humidifiers. Another advantage is that they are powerful enough to raise humidity levels from very low to very high and work well even in larger rooms. They are also safe in houses with small children and usually don’t have filters.Unfortunately, whatever impurities or mineral deposits are in the water, the ultrasonic humidifier will disperse them in the air. If you use hard water, this often creates white dust that settles on furniture and can worsen respiratory conditions if breathed in. Many models allow using demineralisation cartridges, but these may not solve the problem 100%. If you notice white dust forming, switching to distilled water often is the most effective solution.You will also need to regularly clean the tank and nebuliser to prevent bacterial growth, as these little germs can be released in the air too. Some models use UV light or combine ultrasonic and vaporisation technologies together to improve water quality.
  If you can get around the hard-water issue and commit to regular cleaning, the ultrasonic models are excellent and versatile due to their high output, low consumption, and quiet operation.
• Impeller humidifiers produce a cool mist by breaking up water drops using a rotating disc. They are relatively quiet, filter-less, and the consumption levels are low. They also don’t produce white dust. A popular subtype of impeller humidifiers is air washers. These use several rotating discs that increase the water surface area and facilitate evaporation while simultaneously trapping larger dust particles or “washing” the air. However, these models tend to be considerably more expensive compared to other types. Also, no air washer can compete with a proper HEPA air purifier.As to the output capacity, impellers perform similarly or slightly better than evaporative units but cannot compete with ultrasonic models. You can use soft or hard water but be ready to clean the tank regularly.

Other Humidifier Types

As you probably observed, there are quite a few humidifier subtypes.

• One popular option is dual-mist humidifiers that combine warm-mist vaporisation with some cool-mist technology (usually ultra-sonic vibrations). Most of these models are safe as they don’t heat the water to temperatures high enough to cause burns (what they release can be described as lukewarm mist).
• Another subtype is two-in-one humidifiers that add moisture to the air and also function as air purifiers. While the concept sounds promising, check the functions, prices, and customer feedback carefully. Quite often, two separate devices are more efficient and offer more features, with their joint cost being similar (or lower) to a fancy two-in-one.
• Finally, some humidifiers also function as aroma diffusers and allow adding essential oils to deodorise your living space.

What Size Should I Get?

Once you know what type of humidifier is optimal for your needs, the next step is to decide how powerful unit you need. Most models will have the maximum working area in square meters listed in their specifications. However, there is a strong tendency for manufacturers to exaggerate that figure and various calculation methods are used. Furthermore, other factors such as ceiling height, ventilation, current air temperature and humidity can also affect how your device actually performs.

Therefore, it is hard to provide a one-for-all formula. We recommend paying attention to the humidification rate (or output). The higher it is, the more effective the unit will be. Also, pick a model that’s recommended for a bit larger area than you actually need. Don’t just grab the biggest and mightiest one either, as too much moisture in a small room can lead to over-humidification and mould formation.

Water Tank

The water tank capacity is another crucial factor to consider. The smaller tabletop purifiers can have tanks of just 200-300 ml. This means you might have to refill it 1-2 times every day. Console humidifiers usually have larger tanks (up to 6 l), and some can run continuously for more than 2 days. The runtime will depend on how dry the air is and what fan speed you select.

It is not optimal to get a massive humidifier for a small room. To keep your humidifier clean, the water has to be changed regularly, and it is easier to forget it if the tank always looks full.

Also, consider how easy will it be to lift and refill the tank. Some are heavy and awkward to manoeuvre when full, which can be problematic if you have arthritis, lower back pain or other health problems. If you don’t want to deal with heavy tanks, consider top-fill humidifiers, which allow pouring the water directly into the device.

Noise Levels

In general, humidifiers are not among the noisiest appliances. Most emit around 40 dB (the noise level in a library) or less even when set at their top speed. Still, if you want to use one in a bedroom or home office, it’s worth getting the quietest option possible.

Warm-mist humidifiers usually are quieter than their cold-mist rivals since the former don’t use fans. The exception is ultrasonic models, which often are nearly inaudible since they produce higher sound waves than we can hear.

If noise levels are something you’re concerned with, we recommend staying away from cheaper models (no matter what technology is used). They usually use lower-quality materials, and their fans can become noisy over time. Also, choose a model with several intensity modes so that you can turn down the fan at night.

Other Features

By now, we have covered the key aspects you should know regarding humidifiers. Nevertheless, there are a few minor features whose presence or absence can help to make the final decision.

• Automatic shutoff – this feature turns the unit off when the water reservoir is empty. This saves energy and also is crucial for safety. Nowadays, nearly all humidifiers have automatic shutoffs, including the recommendations in our list.
• Humidistat – shuts off the unit when the preset humidity level is reached and turns it on again when moisture levels drop. If your humidifier doesn’t have one, you’ll have to get a hygrometer and switch on or off the machine yourself.
• Control panel – we recommend looking for straightforward, user-friendly controls and clearly visible indicator lights or display. These will alert when water refill, filter change and/or cleaning is due. Models with displays usually have built-in hygrometers that allow setting an exact humidity percentage. However, a big and bright screen can be more disturbing at night than indicator lights. Check whether the display can be dimmed if you need a humidifier for a bedroom or nursery.
• Timer – this feature allows programming your humidifier to turn on or off even if you’re away. Changing humidity levels in larger rooms can take several hours; this feature will enable you to carry out everyday activities rather than babysitting the machine.
• Design – it certainly helps if the unit can fit in with your interior. However, the design also must be practical. Look for models with simple shapes without hard-to-access gaps or corners as they are the most effortless to clean.
• Smart features – if you want remote control over the device, get a smart humidifier. These come with compatible apps that allow switching your humidifier on or off, change the fan speed, set desired humidity level and so on. No humidifier is smart enough to clean itself, though; that’s still your responsibility.
• Supplies – before you buy, consider what additional recurring costs the model in question has. Are there filters that must be changed, and if yes, how often? Will you need to buy demineralisation cartridges or distilled water? What about cleaning; will you need a specific formula? Check the power consumption; it significantly varies between models as well. Thus, a seemingly cheap humidifier can turn out surprisingly costly over time and vice versa.

Placement and Maintenance

Setting up and taking care of a humidifier is not complex; however, some safety and hygiene precautions are necessary. Uncleaned units become perfect breeding grounds for bacteria and fungi; these can trigger several health issues, from asthma and allergies to pneumonitis.
Read the manual carefully and follow the recommendations. Here we list general advice to give you an idea of what to expect from the new appliance.

• Place the humidifier in an open area so that the air can circulate freely, and the mist does not accumulate on nearby surfaces. If you have pets or small children, make sure the device and its cord cannot be reached and/or pulled down.
• If you use the humidifier daily, the tank has to be cleaned at least once per week. Every three days is even better, but most of us have plenty of other tasks apart from tending the humidifiers. When the time comes, rinse the tank thoroughly with water (you can add mild detergent or cleansing agent). The shape of the tank will determine how easy or time-consuming the task will be. Some reservoirs can also go into the dishwasher.
• After each wash, thoroughly drain and dry the water reservoir and any other parts that need rinsing (e.g., wick filters or misting outlets) before you assemble and turn on the unit again.
• If your humidifier needs filters, change them as recommended. Most models will require a new filter every 2-6 months. We recommend purchasing a few pieces together with the unit to minimise the risk of postponing the task.
• To get rid of lime, you can use vinegar. If you use demineralisation cartridges, change them regularly. You can also switch to distilled or demineralised water to prevent the build-up. Some advanced humidifiers have unique cleaning formulas; usually, those are worth the investment.
• If you want to use essential oils, add them only to the designated compartment and never directly to the water. Incorrect use can clog and damage your unit. Not all models can be used as aroma dispensers; check carefully before you buy.